Another 16 mile trek in the hot Spanish sun is rewarded by this stunning cathedral in Burgos. Arrived just in time for a pilgrim’s mass. Every evening just about every town or village has a mass for pilgims.

Built in 1221, it is one is Spain’s largest and a great example of Gothic architecture. Simply unbelievable.

Example of the “road” I walked on, on the 16-mile walk to Burgos. This is what gives you blisters!

Above: the priest in San Juan de Ortega–a tiny mountain village–put a silver cross around the neck of each pilgrim after mass. What a wonderful gesture.

I lite a candle–it is but one among many. It’s strange, in every church after Mass, I light a candle for someone in my family. And it’s all I can do to keep from crying. And sometimes I do. 

The Monestario of San Juan de Ortega.

Tomorrow: the first of several days crossing the dreaded Meseta–the open wheat fields of Spain, a flat land (I’ll believe that when I see it!!!!) of no shade–compared to Death Valley, the Empty Quarter that Lawrence of Arabia crossed to Akaba.

Me and my blisters can hardly wait.

–Don-Qui-Joe-te

Man of La Mancha

Man of Many Blisters

Grandfather of the Camino