My weather app called for cold and rain all day today, so based on yesterday, I was looking forward to it as much as I look forward to new blisters.
At 6:30 a.m. it was 43 degrees F and overcast. I don’t much relish walking in the rain, but walking in 43-degree AND the rain AND the wind for 13 miles is something else entirely. Can you spell hypothermia?

But today’s route from Calzadilla de Cueza to Sahagun, for those tracking me) had villages every 3-5 miles so I figured I could take cover in a bar if things got worse.

I put on everything I had–thank heavens I had a fleece pullover under my rain jacket–and headed out with trepredation and a dose of Camino bravado. And a prayer.

The morning broke cold, but clear with a great sunrise. And coming out of Calzadella I met this wonderful young woman from Denmark who is in university studying law–the Camino is a 2-week break for her. She asked what I did and when I told her she said, “Oh, that’s a pretty good life!”

The sky stayed clear for a few hours and then turned to this:

It wasn’t a question of whether or not it would rain, only when and how much. Great. Keep your head down, Don-Joe, trust in the Camino, accept whatever comes, this will be a memory and a story for the blog in a few hours, one way or another.

But guess what? I somehow managed to get only sprinkles! Never doned the poncho. Others did and from the looks of water on the Camino, those ahead of me got nailed. The Camjno Rain Gods were smiling on me above the clouds. But just as soon as I got into Sahagun, it poured. Talk about timing…

Today was reason to celebrate: it marked the crossing of the Rubicon-/the halfway mark on the Camino!!! 250 miles down, only 250 to go!!!

 The bushes on the path helped me celebrate!

Finally! Across the puente and into Sahagun, a village that the Christians and Moors fought over for generations. Out of 9 churches, only four survived.

I got here just a few days after their Running of the Bulls festival–it’s not only in Pamplona, but travels from town to town–so, there’s still hope for my insanity to kick in!



The bullring and barricades from the running.

Sole, from Argentina, who lives in Boulder and works for a culinary tour company. The Camino is her gift for her 45th birthday. She’s doing a portion of it now and will return next year for more. You meet the nicest people and get to know them in the shortest amount of time! She’s catching a train to Leon and home today.

Finally! A. Real. Hamburger. Hello America, I can taste you now!

I stopped in her bakery twice today and each time she grabs me, tells me how much she likes me (well, that’s what I want to believe she says–I can’t understand a word she talks so fast). Then she gives me more free cookies! 

The evening thunderhead. It doesn’t get dark here until 10:00 p.m.

Who knows what the weather will be tomorrow? I will deal with it when it comes. That’s the way of the Camino.

–Don-Qui-Joe-te

Man of La Mancha New Blisters

Grandfather of the Camino

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